Most manufacturers of "flash units" offer to sell them separately from their dedicated modules. You can attach the dedicated module to the cameras body which is a cool feature no doubt.
It's less expensive for the manufacturers to make and less expensive for you to own. Especially if you have multiple camera types that accept different flash bodies that you will want to inter-change.
The dedicated module can also access other camera features such as the automation of exposure.
The dedicated part of the flash is connected to a light meter within the camera. It then senses when there has been enough light. It will read the light on the film from the reflected flash so that you can properly illuminate your scene.
The internal senser will cut the flash off automatically if it needs to.
Some of these dedicated modules have the same type of sensor built into the camera body. The results are typically very similar.
The former is more accurate and correct, especially when doing close-ups.
Most of us know that if you Measure the light that hits the film you then have a better, more accurate measurement of light. Rather than depending on the flash's built-in sensor you should manually read the light.
You will want to invest in a flash unit that can take advantage of all the features. For instance, if you are into the manual control of light then you might also need to purchase a manual flash. You never know when you'll need more light on a subject. Or you might need an additional light from a totally different angle.
These type of dedicated flash units are also handy when using a wide-angle flash adapter lenses. The reduced guide number can be very hard to figure out. Why? Because, the automatic sensor of the flash can take care of the proper amount of light to use. Your light is being spread out and not going as far which causes this problem.
Most of these flash units have a fail proof indicator. This indicator will illuminate when there has been enough light reflected back to the sensor. Obviously it is looking for the best possible exposure.
If the internal sensor doesn't illuminate you better shoot it again Sam and this time with more power. Or shoot with a faster film, or in a closer range of proximity.
This is a superb feature to have when bouncing your light on to the subject. Or, when doing flash "night photography".
And if your camera has the sensor built right into the camera you can place your flash anywhere which is cool. You can place the flash separate from the camera. This will provide better light for your subject. It's the cameras internal sensor that does all the work.
No comments:
Post a Comment