Showing posts with label photography school. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photography school. Show all posts

Friday, May 9, 2014

Photography Backdrops and Props Make Your Photographs Special


Photography backdrops and props are very useful to make your photographs look unique and lively. Most studios have boring and artificial mood and feeling. Backdrops and props can change this condition in an instant. In addition, they also give more options to the clients.

Photography backdrops

Photography backdrops never intend to change the center of attention. Their purpose is to give different moods, auras, and surroundings so the pictures become unique and personal. In the beginning, muslin was used as photography backdrops. They were popular for school portraits because they are easy to carry. Although they tend to be lightly patterned and dull colored, they could bring a little life to the pictures with the support of proper lighting. They cannot do much to improve the mood and atmosphere though.

They make the pictures focus on the subject, but if they have similar color as the subject's clothing, problems will happen. In addition, they limit the options of the clients and also the photographer's creativity. Students might not have a choice or perhaps they care little about year book portraits, but if you want to make good family portraits, you will want to use unique backgrounds that are not used by everyone.

Technology came to solve the problems create by traditional backdrops. Digital photography backdrops offer a lot of options to the clients. The clients only need to pose and let their pictures taken. Later the background can be added as what the clients want. A nice fireplace can become a good background for Chritmas portraits, while romantic places are excellent for wedding portraits. The options are virtually limitless with digital backdrops.

Photography props

If you feel that a picture is good, usually you do not only see beautiful smiles, but also various photography props in it. Photography props have been used since the early days of photography. They used simple objects like flowers and fruits as props. At that time, the main purpose was to show the level of affluence of the people in the picture.

As photography became popular, photography props became more complex. They did not only use simple objects, but they built the whole scenery that looks like certain events or locations. During Victorian era, pastoral photography was the main trend. Therefore, props like shepherd's crooks and even live sheep were used to create the required atmosphere.

Photography props are still developing even today. Travel related props are the hottest demand right now, such as traditional dress and traditional instrument. Perhaps you have seen many studios that provide traditional Chinese dress for you to wear or even an Irish bagpipe as one of their props. If you combine these props with proper digital backgrounds, you can produce different pictures, which make you like that you have traveled to many countries even though you are only staying in a small studio.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Wallace R MacAskill Hand - Colored Photography


Wallace Robinson MacAskill (1887-1956) was one of Nova Scotia's most famous marine photographers. (We have seen conflicting birth dates ranging from 1887-1890). Best known for his Nova Scotia seascape and sailing vessel scenes, his works are becoming increasing collectible both in Canada and the United States.

Born in St. Peters, Cape Breton County in Nova Scotia, MacAskill graduated from the Wade School of Photography in New York in 1907. He opened his first photographic studio in St. Peters, and then in Glace Bay, before moving to Halifax in 1915. In Halifax MacAskill worked for military photographer W.G. MacLaughlan, and between 1916-19 he worked as a printer at the Elite Studios in Halifax. Between 1920-29 MacAskill worked as a photographic printer for the Commercial Photo Service.

In 1926 MacAskill married Elva Abriel, another professional photographer, and he opened another studio in Halifax around this time. His pictures were used extensively by the Nova Scotia government, and many MacAskill pictures also appeared in two books that he published including Out of Halifax (1937) and Lure of the Sea (1951). Probably MacAskill's most famous picture was the famous schooner "Bluenose", which appeared as a postage stamp in 1929, and which appeared in various books and which proved to be one of his best-selling art photographs.

Wallace R. MacAskill died in Halifax on January 25, 1956. In 1964 Mrs. MacAskill sold the contents of MacAskill's studio, including his negatives, to Maurice Crosby, another Halifax photographer. In 1970 Crosby sold them to the Maritime Supplies & Exchange Ltd. And in 1984, National Art Ltd. was given exclusive rights to produce new hand-colored pictures using MacAskill's original negatives. These pictures were still hand colored in oils, but are not as highly prized by collectors as MacAskill's earliest and original works. This agreement expired in 1986 and in 1987 MacAskill's negatives were donated to the Public Archives of Nova Scotia where they remain today.

Just a few of the Wallace MacAskill titles we have seen include:

• Bluenose
• Cape Le Rounde, C.B.
• Drying Sails
• My Ship o' Dreams
• Peggy's Cove Lighthouse
• Rockbound Coast, Nova Scotia
• Saga of the Sea
• Schooners in Early Morning Mist
• Sunset, Nova Scotia Coast

Monday, May 5, 2014

Scanning Old Photographs Starts With Organization


If a journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step, so too can your journey to organize old photos begin with a single step. If you are like me and have many boxes of "inherited photos" as well as boxes of your own photos you may wonder where to start with the challenge of getting them organized. There is no denying that converting old photos, negatives and slides to digital is the way to go. Not only are you giving your photos a longer life you open yourself up to more possibilities when deciding what to do with your photos.

Converting your photos, negatives and slides to digital does mean that some sorting must be done. As a person who can go through stacks of photos and still have difficulty discarding any (what is this a picture of, or who is this), not to mention using the delete key on my computer I understand what a difficult and daunting task this can be. Back to the idea of starting with a single step. Assess your photos and sort them into categories: old family photos, high school pictures, travel photos, family vacations, photos of your children, or whatever makes sense to you. Once you have sorted your photos into categories you will find it easier to start tossing away the photos that are out of focus, over or underdeveloped, photos that no longer matter to you, or that are just plain unattractive.

The next step is predicated by budget; which ones are you going to have made digital. If you do not have a lot of photos to convert you may decide to use a local drug store chain or a photo finishing company that offer this service. I have found this to be costly and I have not necessarily been impressed with the quality of my scans once I reviewed my DVD. A drug store franchise known for it's camera and photofinishing department charged me $2.00 a scan plus an additional charge to put it onto a DVD. As I needed to scans quickly for a photography class that I was taking I paid the price, but quickly reduced the number of photos I was thinking of using. If you have lots of photos to convert and don't require next day service a better (higher quality at less cost) alternative is to ship your photos to a company that specializes in this type of work. A few companies that I recommend are scanyourphotos.ca and digitalscancanada.ca in Canada and scancafe.com in the U.S. These companies have quality controls, they inspect your photos, clean your slides, do colour correction in some instances and some will provide recommendations on resolution before starting your work. All of these companies have tried and true shipping practices in place so that you can rest easy knowing that your pictures are in good hands. Some of these companies will even accept your photos in albums or slides in trays and they will do the sorting for you. They charge more for this service but if you don't have the time or the motivation to tackle it yourself it may be worth it.

Once you receive your DVD with your images the sky is the limit when it comes to what to do with your pictures. Photoshop Elements (the junior version of Photoshop) is a reasonably priced, easy to use program that will enable you to do colour correction, change images to Black & White or sepia, as well as create photo montages or picture collages, creativity made easy!

Many companies let you download their photo programs so that you can use their templates to create professional looking coffee table books. Some good companies to try are Shutterfly, Blurb, and Picaboo.

All offer online tutorials and easy uploading of pictures, allowing you to easily make a very professional looking coffee table book. Have a look at make-your-own-photo books.com for some great ideas and links to companies that provide these services.

No time to take on a photo book project? There are companies out there that will do this work for you at a reasonable cost. Isn't it time to take that first step?

Sunday, May 4, 2014

Peter Scoones - Legendary Underwater Cameraman!


There is little, if anything, that Peter Scoones does not know about underwater image making. A BAFTA and two Emmys surrounded by numerous other awards are testament to his creative achievements. But it is Peter's dual expertise in both beautiful, artistic cinematography and innovative technical wizardry which make him both unique and extra-ordinarily accomplished in this challenging field. His creative talent has taken him many times around the world for a string of unrivalled wildlife documentaries, many for the BBC Natural History Unit in the company of perhaps the greatest and most distinguished wildlife presenter ever known, Sir David Attenborough. However, he also designs, builds and maintains all his equipment and remains at the very cutting edge of his field today after an underwater career spanning nearly five decades.

He made his first film with an 8mm camera in a homemade Perspex box in the early 1960's, using only a mask, snorkel and fins. From there he has progressed to become one of the leading wildlife natural history underwater cameramen in the world. When I arrived to interview him at his central London flat he was designing a new viewfinder because the cameras he uses have changed their configuration. "Necessity is the mother of invention" says Peter, and never was it more applicable than to this exceptional man.

Born in Wanstead, North London in 1937 to a sailing family, a marine career seemed almost inevitable. After school he qualified as a naval architect but on subsequently passing the entrance exam to the Royal Naval College at Dartmouth for commissioned officer training, his eyesight was tested below standard. So, when National Service loomed, instead of two years as a naval clerk he signed up for nine years in the RAF "to learn something useful". That something was photography.

At the time, Peter was a serious racing sailor "I'm the sort of chap who is 100% involved in whatever activity I am doing, nothing else intrudes" he says. Posted to Singapore, he headed the RAF sailing team. The fast, keeled sailing boats became sluggish when coated in marine algae and hauling them up slipways was time-consuming and cumbersome. Instead, the team borrowed masks and snorkels from the Navy and scrubbed the hulls underwater. Having never previously considered what was under the yachts he raced, Peter observed the shoals of pretty, colourful fish feasting on the debris. Around the same time Hans Hass's boat moored nearby and Peter had a 'eureka' moment. Hass was already his hero and Hass's presence and the lovely marine life meant the area was probably a prime location for the beautiful images he had seen on TV and in the cinema.

So, after persuading the Navy to teach the basics on their O2 rebreathers they formed a diving club. "The RAF disapproved of diving, considering it a dangerous activity, but we ignored them" Peter grins. Due to limited equipment they became highly adept at snorkelling and learned to skip breathe. "I could hold my breath underwater for 3-4 minutes, I still do it. You can't film while breathing it disturbs you, makes you wobble". Due to the lack of kit, as a temporary measure using RAF machine shops, recycled aircraft oxygen tanks and various hoses Peter built a couple of aqua lungs. "Demand valves are fairly simple things" he says, with typical understatement and modesty.

Already hooked on the underwater world through snorkelling, Peter's first ever dive, off Palau Tekukor nearly 50 years ago, was not without drama. Attached by rope "the tanks were very valuable, we didn't want to lose one" he floated down over the drop-off and with "wow" on his lips as a school of batfish wafted gently by he was completely captivated. With his skip breathing technique he stayed down far longer than expected for the air in the tank, so the crew began hauling the rope in. As he was being drawn inexorably towards a large cluster of nasty black sea-urchins, the stings of which can be very painful and indeed serious if multiple, he planted his feet firmly on the wall and pulled as hard as he could. Not only did his first dive feature beauty, awe and danger, he also incurred the wrath of the Far East boxing champion who he pulled into the water on the other end of the rope.

Peter was keen on both wildlife and photography since school days, so it wasn't long before his joint passions of image-making, diving and nature came together. Ever inventive, he would scavenge discarded, scratched aircraft windows returning them to stores and claiming a replacement, thus acquiring pristine sheets of Perspex to model housings from. He made cement from Perspex chips dissolved in chloroform, controls from used hydraulic linkages and created waterproof shafts - this was before o'rings were widely available. Unlike today when you can buy a housing off the shelf, there was nothing for it then but to build his own and in this he was truly a pioneer. "There was the Rolleimarin designed by Hass but that was way outside our budget, Nikonos which evolved out of Cousteau's Calypsophot didn't emerge until 1963, necessity is the mother of invention - if it doesn't exist, build it". There was that signature phrase again.

Tending towards moving film he housed a Bolex C-8 8mm cine camera and shot his first travel piece. He then moved from Singapore to Aden in the Red Sea and created his first feature film 'Breathless Moments'. This won the gold medal at the first Brighton film festival in 1965 and led to several production companies contacting him wishing to distribute the film. But, with great disappointment it transpired the 8mm media was not production quality and could not be used commercially. Peter immediately rejected 8mm, bought a 16mm camera and says "I could never afford to film for myself again. The film was so expensive I had to get paid in order to fund it".

Around this time he co-founded the British Society of Underwater Photographers (BSoUP) with Colin Doeg. Colin, a journalist at the time, has himself contributed significantly to British underwater photography including taking the first picture in British waters ever to win an open international underwater photographic competition. BSoUP is still going strong today boasting membership from many of the foremost underwater photographers in the UK. Having just celebrated it's 40th anniversary, Peter and Colin are still both regular attendees at the meetings in London, a testament to the down to earth nature of both these amazing men.

Says Colin "being a superb camera mechanic as well as accomplished photographer helps Peter handle with aplomb the most dreaded event in any underwater photographer's life... a flood. It is an unforgettable experience to see him calmly pour pints of sea water out of his custom-made camera housing and begin to salvage his expensive video camera anywhere on land or sea. Surrounded by an awe-struck audience and often an ashen producer or client - he can strip his camera down to its carcass, wash and sun-dry all the vital electronic circuit boards and have it working again in as little as a couple of hours".

Colin continues "Peter is hugely talented and is probably the most self-sufficient wildlife underwater cameraman in the world. He has introduced many new ideas, including the use of polecams and cameras slung beneath radio controlled rafts. In the early days in the UK he pioneered the concept of standard sized openings in the body of housings so the ports were interchangeable, something we all take for granted today. He also used to produce correction lens from raw Perspex and blow his own dome ports".

At the end of his nine year stint he left the RAF and joined a colour laboratory in London. For the next few years he absorbed as much as possible about underwater filming. To supplement his strong technical background and optical knowledge he thoroughly researched and read everything ever written on the subject, teaching himself. "I learnt from anyone who could tell me" he says, "I was a sponge, soaking up everything that I needed".

During this time Peter became involved in a production company and continued to push the boundaries of underwater filming. Combining his by now extensive knowledge with an electronics expert colleague, they invented systems for the oil industry. One such project was developing inspection cameras for the BP offshore oil platforms. The only other equipment in existence was inadequate for the low visibility of the North Sea. So, necessity calling again, they developed a camera based on the silicon-intensified technology being used by NASA which functioned in low-light and worked remotely from the platform without the need for divers.

Their reputations spread and one day there was a knock on the door of the workshop in Richmond just outside London. It was David Attenborough (subsequently to become Sir David) and a colleague from the BBC Natural History Unit who wanted to film a live coelacanth in low-light conditions, something that had never been done before. The primitive looking, pre-historic coelacanth, which usually lives around 1,000ft deep, was only re-discovered in the last century after scientists thought it had become extinct along with the dinosaurs, 65 million years earlier. Attenborough was heading to the Comores islands as part of the BBCs 'Life on Earth' series to follow up reports of local fishermen hauling coelacanths up from the deep. He had heard about Peter's camera and wanted to hire it. Peter seized his opportunity. Not only had he read about the coelacanth in school and long harboured an ambition to film it, but he also knew his camera was a completely unique and innovative asset that he was certainly not going to hand over for someone else to use. "I told them they could have my equipment for free" he recalls "as long as they paid for me to go out with them and operate it".

Thus began Peter's long standing involvement with the BBC including 'Reefwatch', 'The Trials of Life', 'Sea Trek', 'Life in the Freezer', 'The Blue Planet' and 'Planet Earth' which was the first broadcast in high definition, among many others. 'Reefwatch' filmed in the northern Red Sea was the first ever live underwater broadcast. At the time, production quality camera heads were not integrated with any recording device, thus filming was achieved by passing the image back to the surface where it was adjusted and recorded. The BBC technicians in Bristol were developing their own cameras "but their knowledge was limited" Peter recalls "I knew their equipment wasn't going to suffice, but they were disinclined to listen to a external freelancer. So I made my own camera. It was less snazzy and elegantly engineered than theirs, but it out-performed them every time".

During 'Sea Trek', Peter enhanced the polecam which he had originally invented for filming killer whales in Norway for an Australian broadcaster. The whales would not approach if there was a diver in the water so Peter put the camera on a pole over the bow of an inflatable boat and drove right up to the creatures. The resulting film, 'Wolves of the sea' included the first recording of whales 'carousel feeding', herding the herring into balls near the surface then using their tails to stun them before scooping them up. With the modern proliferation of wildlife films and tourist excursions this kind of behaviour is now observed by a wide audience, but then it was completely new. The film went on to win the annual Wildscreen Festival. For 'Sea Trek' Peter used the polecam to film dolphins in the Bahamas coming towards the boat rather than going away, this was yet another first.

Peter's next invention was 'the dog'. He developed remote capability by buying a broadcast quality recorder and housing it, connecting it to the camera by umbilical wire and ensuring the unit was neutrally buoyant so it would follow him in the water. He developed the camera control system from scratch, making a colour viewfinder so he could control the image. No longer was he reliant on an onshore technician. This was a revolutionary development and used right up until the BBCs spectacular 'Life in the Freezer' displaying life in the Antarctic in 1993, again with David Attenborough. Around this time broadcast quality camcorders became available which Peter housed so everything was finally all in one unit.

The following years brought a great variety of projects including, in 1995, 'Great White Shark' portraying the natural behaviour of great whites in California and South Africa. He still considers this to be the definitive depiction of these magnificent creatures, and as usual expresses this with no arrogance, simply as a fact. Peter is often accompanied on filming projects by his wife Georgette Douwma who is a highly accomplished photographer in her own right. The couple compliment each other delightfully with the ease and comfort of very good, old friends and also provide support and strength where needed.

The BBC's blockbuster series 'The Blue Planet' came next and Peter's skills were described by Sir David Attenborough thus: "Peter has a remarkable gift of composition. He understands fish just as other cameramen understand chimpanzees. He knows fish so well he can sense what they are going to do. You can see it in his footage. He moves as the fish move. We told him to go to his favourite destination and produce the footage for a film," Attenborough says. "We would construct the story to go with it. He went to Sipadan and the resulting film won a Palm d'Or at the Antibes film festival in France."

Peter's most recent, major involvement was with yet another BBC/ Attenborough landmark 'Planet Earth'. This was right at the forefront of technological advancement using High Definition (HD) technology for the first time. Aware of technical limitations on 'The Blue Planet' the series producer Alastair Fothergill approached Peter a year before filming and asked him to build the HD housings. Peter feared he would invest much time and effort creating high quality, top-end equipment only to see it hired out to other cameramen rather than filming himself, a prospect he was distinctly uncomfortable with. On assurance he would be fully involved he went ahead with the build, only to find some of his fears were realised with less involvement than expected. Apart from the frustration, this had a very real effect on his income. To balance this, after 'Planet Earth' wrapped up, rather than the equipment remaining with the BBC as is usual Peter insisted it be returned to his ownership and he now hires it out himself, maintaining it, continually developing it and still shooting himself where possible. His current involvement is with the BBC's next great wildlife epic entitled simply 'Life'.

Peter's long and prolific career has not been without hazard, like the time he was speared by an elephant trunk in the murky waters of the Okavanga Delta while filming for Planet Earth leading to extensive dental work. His life has been at risk from wildlife too many times to mention here, but he approaches these natural dangers with a typical relaxed philosophy. However, there is something he admits to being frightened of. "Ropes and regulations can kill you" he explains. "Once when filming a cable burying device the HSE advisor insisted I was attached by rope which I could not independently release. I blankly refused and eventually he compromised so I could release it myself. Sure enough, the rope became trapped under the bulldozer-like vehicle and I was drawn towards the burying device. If I hadn't been able to release it I would be dead, without question. When I surfaced, he angrily declared he would rather have a dead diver in the water than someone surfacing unexpectedly. I have been terribly anti- HSE, not to mention ropes, since then".

Peter is intensely environmentally aware. He eats fish, but not reef fish "it seems a bit of a nonsense to go filming them then come back and eat them". He also invests clean-up time on a reef before filming, clearing discarded fishing lines and ropes "it's amazing how much rubbish comes from boats, often operated by ex-fishermen who regard the sea as somewhere to dump rubbish. They don't have an understanding of the reef or what we want to see on it, because they don't see it".

It would be forgivable if this outstanding and uniquely talented man were to have a sense of arrogance or conceit about his many pioneering and unprecedented achievements. Not so. Peter is a true genius, but still more than happy to share his knowledge and discuss any topic with openness and generosity. "I'm just a chap who is learning how to take excellent pictures underwater" he says. It sounds falsely modest, but he really means it.

Wireless Flash


I cover a wide variety of subjects within my business - everything from portraits, weddings through to corporate events - I need portable and versatile lighting that I can easily carry around with me, takes as little as a couple of minutes to set up and start shooting. These days I use the Nikon SB900 flashguns. These feature wireless i-TTL flash control, auto FP High-Speed Sync, Wide area AF assists Illuminator, Zoom function and much, much more. By using these, I've found that I can handle virtually any situation that I am called upon to photograph while on location. The most important factor when using these flashguns is being able to sync at any shutter speed of up to 1/8000. This is critical to my style of shooting.

These little flash guns are portable and extremely easy and quick to set up. Now I don't need to carry my heavy three-head studio flash kit to any events I attend. In fact, since I started using the Nikon kit I've hardly used my studio gear at all! There are no power cables, no sync leads and no light meters to worry about, and the best bit of all is that all remote wireless units can be controlled via the main master flash, which is attached to the camera's hot shoe. What this means is that if I wish to power up or down a remote flash I do not need to go up to the unit to do that, since it can be done via the master flash which is on camera. This saves a lot of time if you have more than two remote units. You take a shot, have a look and power up or down the relevant unit from your shooting position.

The Setup

The most important factor which the wireless flash adds is its ability to give me directional lighting within my images. I usually shoot with a SU800 commander unit as my Master and a SB900 as my Remote. The Remote flashgun can either be hand held or set up on a light stand and fired through an umbrella. The Nikon CLS system works on infra-red. So it is important to make sure that the sensor on the Remote is facing you so that the pre-flash or the infra-red beam reaches it and triggers the flashgun. This is critical when photographing outdoors.

Setting the Exposure

This is by trial and error. I set the camera & flash in manual mode so I have complete control over how much ambient & flash light is going through my lens. I take a shot, have a look at the back of the camera and adjust the exposure as required.

There are 4 variables when setting the exposure. If you follow the KISS principle of Keep It Simple Stupid, you won't go wrong. Here how I set my exposure:

  • I set the ISO to say 400 or any other speed and leave it alone


  • I set the aperture to f/4 and leave it alone. 95% of my flash photography is done at f/4


  • I set my shutter speed and don't it touch it all.

All I'm adjusting now is the output of the flash. If its too much, I cut it down and vice versa. Balancing the flash & ambient light in Manual mode is extremely easy and produces pleasing images and most importantly you get what you want, not what the camera / flash decide to expose!

Wireless Flash Weddings

Time is of the essence at a wedding, and quite often the photographer does not have the time to set up strobes to improve on the available lighting, even if this was possible, there is always the danger of trailing power cables and sync leads in a public location, and these may not be long enough to reach the outdoor location where you are looking to set up your shot. Using the Nikon SB900 makes all these considerations a thing of the past, and I've found that I can set my images up quickly and safely. Quite often during the reception I have clamped my remote SB900 guns to a suitable vantage point, such as a door frame, furniture edge or a curtain pole, using a Bogen 175 clamp.

Location Portraits

Shooting on-location allows me to use locations which I couldn't before with a traditional studio set up. Perfect example is on a hill where the car park could be about 20 minutes from the location where you are shooting. You walk all the way up with heavy equipment and only to find it starts to rain! Using the Nikon Speedlights allows quick and easy set up and also packing up is lightning fast if it starts to rain.

Corporate

Shooting in an office environment is quite challenging as the photographer may not have enough space to work with, while moving the furniture around to create room for a conventional lighting kit may not be an option. When I set up a shoot in an office, I make sure that I don't come in anyone's way and no one is inconvenienced by me. I don't have any need for any power supply and hence don't have any cables or leads to plug in to power points.

Even though the Nikon SB900 is a small flashgun, it does pack a punch or two. Used correctly and you will achieve results which will amaze you and your clients.

Saturday, May 3, 2014

Photo Frames To Showcase Your Fond Memories


As you live each day of your life, all of you encounter hundreds of experiences you would want to relive for the rest of your lives, but alas, as the saying goes, time and tide waits for none! Taking photos are just the right solution to this problem, if one can capture every moment in some perfect pictures he can easily revisit the old times whenever he wants. Be it your childhood days or passing the first school examination, marriage, parenthood or the first success in your career, every moment is worth capturing. These are some fond memories which one would like to cherish for the entire life. As each one of you are so busy in your lives that you do not have enough time to sit and enjoy all the little moments of your life, so once these little joys and sometimes even the sorrows are captured you get the opportunity to relive these moments all through.

Pictures, no wonder, does the magic but attractive photo frames definitely adds to that magic. Photos look livelier when properly framed in suitable frames rather than just lying in an album. Moreover if the pictures are kept in proper frames they can be showcased and preserved. Unlike albums, which are opened once in a while, framed photos are seen every day and those cherished moments in life are revisited every day. The look and feel of all those beautiful pictures would never be the same without those fantastic frames.

Using frames for pictures also ensure the pictures longevity and better quality for a longer period of time. Nowadays frames are available in different quality and varieties made specially to meet the needs for every situation. The different moods of every situation in life are captured perfectly with the help of these frames.

Photo framing is definitely an art. Not many people can do it perfectly. Choosing the appropriate frame for every picture is not that easy. The frame in which the picture is kept has the ability to entirely change the look and feel of the picture. So it is very essential to choose the perfect frame for every treasured picture. Nowadays several picture framing software are also available over the net so that one can edit the picture according to their wish and then get the copy of it. Using this software is not very tricky. You just need to follow some simple instructions and get your picture edited in the way you want.

Making a perfect picture is no more a problem now. However several important issues must be kept in mind while choosing the perfect frame. For instance, the background walls where the photo is supposed to be mounted, the size of the frame, the color of the frame which should be relevant to the picture and other little things. Always remember the wrong frame can just suck the life out of your favorite picture and that will be the end of it so to avoid that is very specific while choosing one.

Photography Lighting Patterns - Rembrandt Light


What subjects does it work for?

Rembrandt lighting was named after of the great master, who often used it in his own portraits. The idea is to create a small inverted triangle of light on the subject's cheek which is opposite the light source. This is very flattering (especially for people with prominent cheekbone structure) and was often used in old Hollywood portraits. It is important to ensure that you get catch lights in both eyes.

This technique works well for subjects will full or round faces (because it adds definition and slims the face), but is generally not a good choice for narrow faces. Some 'old school' photographers refer to Rembrandt lighting as 'masculine' and some really old school portrait photographers will insist that a woman should never be lit with Rembrandt Lighting. Since Rembrandt himself painted women using basic Rembrandt Lighting, you can safely assume that this 'rule' is a 'guideline' at best.

Where does it fit in with other techniques?

This is one of the 5 basic lighting setups used in studio portrait photography; the others being Broad, Short, Split Portrait and Butterfly. There are two things that make up Rembrandt Lighting; a light on one half the subjects face and a triangle of light on the shadowed side of the face (called a chiaroscuro). Technically the triangle shadow should be no wider than the eye, and no longer than the nose. The thing that distinguishes Rembrandt Lighting from simple short lighting is the triangle of light,

This method can be considered simply a variation of short lighting. When the lighting is such that the shadow of the nose reaches the shadow side of the face and forms a triangle on the short side of the face, it is referred to as Rembrandt lighting.

Set-up

At its most basic level this lighting method is constructed with a single light source placed approximately 45 degrees offset from the subject and a bit higher than eye level, lighting the side of the face that is farthest from the camera. This single light source is often supplemented with a reflector or a second light placed approximately 45 degrees to the shadowed side of the face and set at 翻 the power of the main light source (called the key light). This is used to lift the shadows on the darker side of the face.

Conclusion

Rembrandt lighting is a simple, effective lighting set-up that is flattering to a wide variety of subjects and is easy to master quickly. It's possible to achieve using a single diffused flash unit and homemade reflector.

Friday, May 2, 2014

How to Learn Photography Now


If you want to know how to learn photography you need to do one thing: immerse yourself into this wonderful art. With proper direction and guidance you'll have no problem learning photography (as this article will show you).

There are a number of directions you can take to begin on how to learn photography. You can...


  • Get a mentor that is a professional photographer

  • Attend a university with a major in photography

  • Go to an art school for photography

  • Learn yourself

This article will focus on the "teach yourself" part. It is the way many professional photographers got started that are now teaching at universities and major photography classes.

How did they go about becoming experts in the field?

I like to boil it down to two essential ingredients: learning as much as possible and practicing as much as possible. And then repeating the two of these as much as possible!

There are many places where you can find out how to learn photography and I recommend you check out each and every single one of these resources. Each will have its strengths and weaknesses and each will have at least one piece of new knowledge you can soak in from it.

There are video courses, books you can get from bookstores, digital books, local classes you can register for, and even seminars you can attend to learn from the pros. The more you immerse yourself in this learning atmosphere the more you'll start to improve.

Subscribing to Magazines with Great Photos

One thing that really helped me improve my photos was subscribing to National Geographic Magazine and looking at all the fascinating images they had. Being a nature photography enthusiast, this worked well for me and gave me many creative ideas.

Find the type of photography you love and then locate a magazine that uses this type of photography. If you're into high end fashion photography find high end fashion magazines!

Implementing What You Learn

There are people that read books, watch videos, and do everything they can to become "big nerds" of photography. They even know the history of the art from its very existence. Yet they can't take a quality photo to help their lives. These are the people that fail to implement what they learn into their own photography.

It is critically important for you to use every piece of new information you learn in your photography. I recommend going out and taking some photos each time you learn something new. Give yourself assignments with the specific purpose of using a new technique or tip.

Thursday, May 1, 2014

Applications of Panoramic Photography in Law Enforcement


As with all photography techniques, the application of panoramic equipment and software is only limited by the skill and imagination of the user. Law enforcement officers have always relied on the abilities of forensic photographers to document victims, evidence and locations in a highly detailed manner for official reference. The use of multiple-image composites for creating wider views of scenes is essential to accurately portraying locations in true detail. That is why many forensic photographers and law enforcement officers use a wide variety of pano heads and virtual tour construction software.

The ability to preserve a perfect 360-degree view of any scene or location is tremendously valuable for law enforcement officers. Due to its one-button simplicity, the Girocam 360 enables first responders to capture complete views of a scene. This technology benefits law enforcement officers by ensuring that the photos remain admissible in court due to the camera's internal stitching function, which helps to create panoramic views without the liability of requiring a technician to manipulate or alter the original photos as was previously the case.

Creating simple one-button 360-degree panoramic photographs of crime scenes is not the only thing the world of panoramic photography has to offer law enforcement officials. With virtual tour construction software, interactive views and models of locations can be created for tactical strategizing and group briefings. Virtual tour software, such as Autopano Pro, enables in-house photographers to construct easy to use visual models that can be navigated and annotated for higher mission clarity through clearer demonstrations. This kind of real-world referencing ensures that everyone involved is in complete alignment for logistics and safety purposes.

Panoramic products, such as motorized pano heads, are also being used in surveillance operations to increase the amount of area that is being systematically documented. By utilizing a motorized pano head, law enforcement officials are able to precisely repeat panoramic photos over and over for accurate time-lapsed comparisons. The precision control of a motorized pano head makes it easy to spot subtle changes in the details of uniformly repeated photos captured over the entirety of a surveillance operation.

As with all panoramic photography and virtual tour construction, the finished projects are only limited by imagination and tools. For law enforcement offices that have just been introduced to the idea of expanded views, it may be better to sample these product's potential by using a static pano head, like the Pano Maxx, and a basic pano stitching program, like Autopano. Turning those panoramics into virtual 360-degree tours is a snap with the help of software like Panotour.

There are even bundled packages available on the net that include the products any police or forensic photographer needs to get started in panoramic photography and virtual tour construction. Once a has seen a sampling of what a huge difference these techniques can make in crime scene documentation and logistics briefings, it will be easy to progress to an advanced level of construction and capture by investing in professional options like Girocam 360 or the Professional Virtual Tour Kit.

Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Part 1 - Digital Photography Tips For American Football


American Football - a game of high stakes and even higher emotions, whether it's the joy of watching an immaculate catch, the anguish of losing a game by a "wide-right" field-goal, or the worry of seeing your quarterback blindsided by an angry lineman with something to prove.

What makes football a high-paced, anything-can-happen event also makes it very difficult for digital photographers. You must deal with 22 players on the field (not to mention referees and coaches trying to get their points across), plus the midday sun outside or inconsistent lighting inside domes. Unless you have a press pass, you also must deal with nose-bleed seats in large stadiums and shouting and screaming fans ready to jump up at a moment's notice to block your shot. Whew!

To help you score a touchdown with your digital photos I've listed 5 digital photography tips, and 4 more are listed in Part II.

1) Don't Get Your Hopes Up

This sounds like a lousy tip to start things off, but hear me out. If you're sitting in nose-bleed seats and don't own a digital camera with a large optical telephoto zoom (digital zoom doesn't matter), football players will likely appear as just large dots in your photos. And if you're sitting behind a tall person that loves to stand up and cheer after every play, good luck taking great photos from your seat without getting a shot of the person's head in the way.

In either of these two scenarios, look around the stadium for aisles or walkways where you can hang around without impeding others' views (and getting security nervous). You need a clear line of sight; an errant head or foam "we're number one" hand appears in too many photos.

2) Buy a Camera with Plenty of Adjustment Features

I'm not saying you must run out and purchase a $1,000+ digital SLR (though it may help!), but make sure the digital camera you buy has plenty of adjustment options. At a minimum you should be able to adjust the shutter speed, ISO settings (more on both later), and metering or exposure levels to adjust to difficult lighting scenarios.

One other point - look for digital cameras with image stabilization features or lenses. Though this won't offset any blurriness caused by football players moving at high speed, it may reduce blurriness caused by shaking when holding a camera.

3) Ensure Your Camera can be Taken to the Game

Don't get sacked before you even get a chance to sit down. Stadiums have different rules about what you can bring to the game. At high-school or intramural games you may be able to bring any camera you desire. For college and professional games you may be limited to cheap compacts, "non-professional" digital camera, or cameras with a small maximum telephoto zoom.

4) Bring the Right Accessories

Bringing a digital camera is just the tip of the iceberg, like the extra point that comes after a touchdown. At a minimum you need:

* A lens hood - Focus light to your camera, essential on sunny days (even if it's cold).

* Extra memory - Great shots won't end at halftime; don't let your memory fill up by then.

* Extra batteries - What if a game goes to overtime?

* Waterproof camera bag - In case soda or alcoholic beverages are spilled.

* Cleaning supplies such as dry napkins and a lens-cleaning kit - See above.

If you're attending a football game that lets you take photos on the sidelines, bring along a tripod AND if you own one, a spare digital camera. The digital camera mounted on the tripod can be focused near the center of the field to take photos without camera shake, and you can use your spare camera for quick photos if the action is outside the other camera's range of vision. Just be prepared to move quickly if the action gets too close!

5) Don't Forget Tailgate Parties

Tailgate parties are as much of a part of the football experience as the game itself. Bring extra memory and batteries to take photos of your friends and other fans around the stadium. Snap a photo of the person wearing a rainbow wig, the fans painted in their teams' colors, and of impressive grilling setups.

Part II of this article will discuss more camera settings necessary to take quick photos during plays, as well as more advice on what you can do to prepare before the game.

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Outdoors is the Way to Go For Senior Portraits in Hawaii


The Hawaiian Islands have some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. Oahu alone has amazing beaches, swaying palm trees, lush rainforests, cascading waterfalls and the towering Ko'olau mountains. The Big Island of Hawaii has an active volcano, a snow-capped mountain with a world-class observatory and cattle ranches. Each of the other Hawaiian Islands - Maui, Kauai, Lanai and Molokai - also have their unique natural beauty. So, why is it that most high school students who vacation in Hawaii don't think about having their senior pictures taken here? Probably because all their classmates have their senior pictures taken with the school photographer back home.

The few students who break the mould are richly rewarded with unique senior portraits that can only be taken in Hawaii. Below are some great outdoor locations for student photos in Hawaii.

The Beach
It would be remiss not to mention the most popular location for portrait photography in Hawaii. There are golden sand beaches, black sand beaches (Big Island of Hawaii), beaches with lava rocks around - the list is endless.

Botanical Garden
If you're a plant lover or would like a lush green background in your photos, consider a visit to a botanical garden.

Rainforest and Waterfall
Photos in a rainforest usually involves taking a hike. Several rainforest hikes do have waterfalls at the end of the trail but it may not be practical to take several outfits and hike through the mud. However, most local photographers will know of areas that have a rainforest feel sans the hike. There are also manmade waterfalls that can be easily accessed.

Orchid or Tropical Flower Farm
You will need to get permission to shoot at an orchid or flower farm, but most places will grant permission if you offer to buy a plant (yes, they can package orchids for air travel) and explain that the photos are for your personal use and not for commercial purposes. If you like a very colorful background, orchid and flower farms are good locations for your senior pictures.

Your hotel grounds
Most of the higher-end hotels have beautifully landscaped areas that are great locations for photography. Unfortunately, some of these hotels charge a ridiculously high photo fee even if the guest's pictures are for their personal use. Your best bet is to call the hotel's guest services director and ask him or her to waive the fee. Insist on using the photographer of your choice and not the expensive hotel photographer who takes boring pictures. If they refuse, say that you will stay at another hotel that is more accommodating. Chances are, they will waive the fee because hotels need to fill up their rooms.

Horse Ranch
If you love riding, consider taking your senior photos at a horse ranch or riding school. This will also require obtaining permission ahead of time.

Chinatown or some other bustling street in Honolulu
If you want to throw in some culture into your shoot, take a stroll down Honolulu's Chinatown area on a Sunday morning. Bustling markets selling fresh fruits and vegetables amidst the historical buildings of Oahu's downtown makes for a funky backdrop to your senior pictures.

Some senior portrait photographers, including myself, will allow pictures with family members, siblings or friends with some of the extended packages. Photo books, slide shows and canvas prints are also offered as add-ons with your outdoor senior portrait packages. These are all well worth considering as they will be a wonderful souvenir of your trip to Hawaii.

Pursue Your Tertiary Education With a College Resume


Is there such thing as a perfect resume?

For sure, there are different views and opinions on how to compose an application document. Actually, there are thousands and even millions of thoughts about it. But the truth is there is actually no such thing as perfect, just a comprehensive one.

Writing tips are all over the Internet. But if you're just a college student, you may not find is the exact advice you needed especially those that are really important in making one. Yes, there may be instances where it seems that you have already included everything. But you'll eventually ask yourself, "Am I missing something?" Maybe there are things that you still have to learn and explore. But the main point in writing a college resume begins only with two words: Be yourself.

I for one experience the struggle of crafting a stand-out pre-employment document. But it didn't make me too worried on what details to include and exclude. Be honest. Don't ever try to lie about anything. Remember that universities accept students who are true to themselves and have good motivation in life. Follow these tips to get that application summary work for you.

Acceptable Skills for a Student

Leadership is a factor that you can include. If you were elected for a school organization or any interest group, this should be mentioned in your document. Haven't been through this? Well, you must start thinking about the projects or assignments you had that made you a lead among your peers. Leadership skills are usually practiced and honed in every school, so you may certainly have this competency. Also, you can cite that you are a team player who is committed in partaking in team works and activities.

If you are the type of student who is determined and dedicated proven by a perfect school attendance record, it is better if you mention this in your college resume. This is another good factor in getting the "prize" you're applying for.

Show Your Assets

Universities and colleges are like companies. They look for the best individuals, those who will give them a good reputation, and those who are skilled. Try to focus on the positive qualities that you have and prove to the interviewer that you really possess such personality for you to stand out in the competition.

Share Your Vision

Before enrolling in a learning institution, the admission officers will want to know more about your goals and aspirations in life. It's like giving them your objective on why you wanted to go to that university and pursue your tertiary education. Give them the idea of what your intentions are all about and that you are absolutely focused on achieving a successful academic career.

Include your Interests

By citing you're your interests, the admission officer may obtain hints on what organizations, groups, sports clubs or volunteer programs you can join. This can also help you in enhancing your talents and skills.

Keep It Short

Okay, so you're on your way to higher education to become a professional someday. But why make and submit a lengthy college resume? This is not advisable. Only those professionals who have work experiences and many achievements are fitting to create a two-page document or even more pages than that. Experts don't recommend a resume that is too long. The reader may be bored and may not be interested on it.

Graduation Portraits


Graduation portraits are portraits that are taken by an external photographer inside a studio set-up with the student dressed, from head to toe, in their academic graduation gowns. If that sounded like a sentence with too many words, then try putting two and two together yourself. The first word is graduation, which is simple enough to understand, even if you are in primary school. The second word is portrait. Now this one could be tricky depending on your education level. A portrait is generally a rendition of a single person's upper body and particularly their face.

Portraits can be either paintings or photographs. Since we are living in the 21st century, we'll assume that by portrait we mean a photograph of a person's upper body. Alright, now let's put the two words together; what do we get? A photograph taken after graduation? Yes! You got it right! I knew the process of breakdown would work wonders. A graduation portrait is a picture that is taken with the student in his or her graduation gown and cap. They are not really required, per se, but it helps to have a visual proof of your academic credentials. After all, you never know.

Alright enough dark thoughts. Graduation portraits are a must if you wish to cherish the memory of your graduation day for the years to come. You will find yourself flipping through your photo album or gazing at your mom's wall and you will find your old graduation portrait and believe me, you will smile. Chances are you will only wear your academic gowns for graduation once and then never again. I certainly have never gotten the opportunity to wear my academicals after the convocation ceremony (alright, I did put them on once more for taking the graduation portrait). The same is true for my friends as well.

None of us have had much use for the academicals we were given ( the caps and gowns for high school graduation) after the ceremony was over. Most of my friends don't even remember where they have stored their academic dresses. That's the thing; we wear academic gowns for graduation alone, unless we attend a high profile university that expects students to strut around in their formals all the time. I certainly wasn't fortunate enough to go to such a place. The only other time that I wore my graduation cap and gown was when I got my graduation portrait taken, as I have mentioned previously. I went around town looking for the best studio I could afford with my limited budget. You will find that there are many places that are willing to work at your price and still provide some great shots. The important thing is to discuss with the photographer what you want and the possible ways to get it.

Graduation portraits are a great way to preserve memories. I had a real wild one taken and every time I look at it, I am forced to acknowledge what a wild little kid I really was back then.

Monday, April 28, 2014

Great Things About Photography


Photojournalism has come a long way and is now a multi-million dollar business. People involved in photography have put up their work on blogs and are expanding their horizon. Community sites like Flickr have dedicated them to budding photography enthusiasts. There are a lot of reasons behind the passion of photography. Camera stores are mounting offering imaging solutions to all.

Photographs give a glimpse of our whole life. When you see your childhood photographs with your schoolmates it does bring a smile on your face and all those funny memories rush into your mind. The family trips, school picnics, social gatherings all are arrested in images which are enduring. The photographs you take and the way you take it matters the most. You can make a scenic photo look scary if you take it in black and white. You can play with the lighting and shadows and create a whole new prospective for the image. The photo control is in your hands and you can create your won theme and look for an image.

Photography is not as simple as it seems to be. Maybe after 50 attempts for a good shot you would get a decent picture. The important thing in photography is to have patience. The best cameras won't guarantee you good pictures but a skilled photographer who has gained knowledge over a period of time will. Photography is an art and it need not be appreciated by all. You have to believe in your work, if you like your picture then it has the value, it doesn't count if anyone appreciates it or not.

Photographs speak a lot about the photographer's personality and traits. The kind of pictures you click and the way you present it, display your perception and mannerisms. Photography is individualistic and doesn't follow a particular path, rules or regulations. You and your camera need to connect and you need to feel the subject you want to frame. Once you decide to capture something, laziness shouldn't overcome your willingness to get that perfect picture. Photography gives a sense of satisfaction to the photographer and it exposes his perception to all. Sharing of photographs would only enhance your work and make you better. This art can be practiced by anyone; it requires some dedication and your imagination.

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Photography - Tell A Story With Context


Context creates a sense of time and place in photography. Context identifies the era of a photo, the lifestyles being lived, and the possessions held most dear. Beautiful portraits draw our attention to the subject, but our everyday photos show with details of our lives.

Was there a rotary phone on your wall? What did your front door look like in your first day of school photos? I love my childhood photos with the green countertops of the kitchen, funky flower wallpaper, and long, boat-like cars. I love the Christmas photos with special gifts still in boxes behind smiling faces next to a leaning tinseled Christmas tree.

How do you capture context in an appealing way? Three techniques help you improve context.

1. Focus - It's all about focus. Focus on a strong subject in the frame so the viewer knows exactly the story you are telling. The other elements stay in the frame and keep the viewer lingering on the details of the photo, but strong placement of your subject provides an anchor for your viewer. Divide your frame into thirds, place your subject on a third intersection in the frame, and create a feeling of dominance. Avoid centering your main subject.

2. Blur a bit - Shoot with a wide aperture (small f/ number) with space between your subject and the background to blur clutter, again drawing focus to your subject. Use portrait mode on your camera for similar results. Don't completely blur everything, just decrease its intensity.

3. Shoot low - Change your point of view to increase the focus on your subject. Shoot from below their eye level of your subject to make them seem larger, reducing the focus on items in your background.

The next time you think about moving the clutter from the frame, consider leaving details to give important memories for future viewers. If your viewer's eye goes to the subject of the photo everything else in the frame is a bonus.

Friday, April 25, 2014

Trick Photography and Special Effects E-Book - Inspirational Or A Waste Of Your Money?


It's Christmas. The kids are home from school, the family is together and our thoughts are on letting go and having fun. It's the silly season as we say in Australia. I wasn't going to review another weight loss solution or online money making program. I wanted to review something that was fun and something I was interested in. Photography for me is relaxing and fun and I hoped others feel that same way too.

How many of you got a camera for Christmas? OK... How many of you love photography? Now, how many are envious of other photographer's work and wish you can create pictures like they can? How many of you aren't very good at Photoshop but love to learn more? And how many, like me, are old school and were taught to do everything in camera not on a computer? I thought so, well if you answered yes to any one of these questions I want to tell you about an e-Book you'll love. It's the Trick Photography and Special Effects e-Book. It teaches, it inspires and it is a lot of fun this Christmas holidays.

What Is Trick Photography and Special Effects?

Trick Photography and Special Effects is a 190 page e-Book. This e-book is made so it's easy to understand whether you are a beginner, advanced or a working professional. It's well thought out with literally hundreds of real examples and real photos taken by photographers for photographers. You can open this book on almost any page and get engrossed in topics that are fun to do and at the same time learn more about what we love doing, which is photography. I love it because even though it's very detailed it also re-ignites your creativity with new ideas and new techniques. There is something in it for everybody who is into photography.

Trick Photography and Special Effects is broken up into 3 categories:

Long Exposure Effects and Light Painting:
• Fundamental lights and techniques
• Light sources
• Light painting techniques
• Lightning
• Motion blur
• Star trails
• Many more fun long exposures

Trick Photography and Special Effects:
• In-Camera illusions
• HDR photography
• Infrared photography
• 360 Degree panoramas
• The Droste Effect
• Time-Displacement photography via scanner
• The Harris Shutter Effect

Photoshop Projects:
• Introduction to layer masks and blending modes
• Multiplicity photography
• Levitation photography
• The invisible man
• Flash manipulation
• Fake tilt-shift photography
• Mixing day with night

This e-Book is inspirational, exciting and a great waste of time over the holiday season. You will have fun and learn something in the process. Best of all it will get you doing something that adds to your enjoyment of life and your enjoyment of photography.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Preparation Tips For Your Senior Portrait Session


Senior portraits have come a long way from the days your parents where high school seniors; they are a far cry from the "tilt your head and smile" poses that where photographed in the school gym or a local portrait studio in town.

High school seniors today are more demanding and have a lot more activities going on in their daily lives than their counter parts of the past and thereby require a more unique, and creative approach to their senior portraits. These seniors require an approach that captures their true personality; their likes, hobbies, personality, and extracurricular activities.

While a tremendous amount of responsibility is placed on the photographer to capture these unique photos, the senior student doesn't escape any responsibility on their part. Below is a list by California portrait photographer, Alyn Stafford that outlines senior portrait preparation tips that should be considered by the senior prior to their photo shoot. Following the list can almost guarantee a very productive and successful photo session.


  1. Be Flexible - Your days events and planning can change. The photographer can be inspired by many things and change the plan. Flexibility in mood and timing can help you stay focused and mentally prepared for a great senior portrait session.

  2. Get a Good nights Rest - Being tired the next day for your photo shoot can be harmful to your photos. Tired eyes and a "dragging" body don't make for a good photo session.

  3. Take Several Outfits - It's a good idea to have several outfits of clothing that reflect your personal style. You should first consult with your photographer about the types of photos you would like so that the photographer can advise you of the wardrobe to bring. Remember to make sure they are stain and wrinkle free for the shoot. In addition, don't forget to ask about what colors to wear. Your photographer will advise you on this issue as well.

  4. Hair and Makeup - Stick with a proven hairstyle for your shoot. As for make-up keep it simple and avoid bright red lipstick for girls. You want to look as natural as possible. If you want to have a makeup artists present, either hire one for the shoot or ask your photographer if they offer a make-up artist service.

  5. Blemishes and Braces - Don't stress over them. Make sure your photographer can remove them for you if you desire. Most photographers offer this service either for free or for a fee.

  6. Be yourself - Remember, Your senior portraits reflect who you are. Be yourself during the shoot. Most photographers will do a warm-up session for about 10 to 15 minutes to get you use to the camera and their working style.

  7. Bring a Friend or Parent - It's a good idea to bring someone with you when doing the photo shoot. But remember, you don't want an audience either. Too many people can make you tense as well as interfere with the photographer.

  8. Arrive a Few Minutes Early - Arriving early to your photo shoot allows you and the photographer to go over last minute details, and changes in the plan, and to prepare for the shoot.

  9. Have Fun - Taking senior portraits should not be work, it should be fun. The photos are all about you, so make the most of it. Have fun with the session.

Nikon D90 - How Good is It Really?


First off, I have a confession. Yours truly is a Canon user.

"OK," you might ask, "what's up with the article about a Nikon D90?"

"Excellent question," I might respond. It's actually about an admiration I have for Nikon and Canon in general.

The fact is, both Canon and Nikon are great digital SLR camera manufacturers, and no matter which one you have, it is probably a fantastic unit. Both companies are heavily into improving technology and providing photographers with a first class experience.

Competition is wonderful, especially when the results are as obvious as they are in the recent improvements in DSLR equipment.

So, enough with the double-speak. Most photographers are true to their brand. If they own one major brand, they will uphold the virtues of that brand and many times degrade the other. Not so for me. I like 'em both, and I have used 'em both.

Here's my question of the day: "What makes a good camera great? In particular, what makes a Nikon D90 great?"

I will give you my best answer below, but first a little insight into why I think the way I do about this subject.

I am a high school yearbook adviser for a small private school. This is my first year doing this gig, and I am learning as I go. One of the major hurdles that I am becoming painfully aware of is that there are not enough "picture takers" at my school. I have struggled getting photos of events.. no, not true.. I have struggled getting photos that are "good enough" to print in the yearbook.

I can't go to every event myself, so I have asked many students, parents, and staff members to help out. The results are disappointing. Mostly there is no photo coverage because the people are just not interested in getting them. And when they do take pictures they are not of good enough quality.

That is until this week. I encountered a student in the hall who said, "Hey, I have some pictures of the track meet. Do you want to use some of them?"

Obviously, I said I did. However, I was not all that enthusiastic about getting them considering what I had seen in the past from students and parents.

Boy, was I surprised when I uploaded those 210 photos to my computer. They were excellent! And some were just downright amazing.

So I went to find this budding young photographer to find out how she did this. "Oh, I really like taking pictures with my Digital SLR," she told me. "I have a Nikon D90, and I have been getting a lot of really cool pictures with it. The more I use it the more I'm getting to like photography. I love this camera."

I was so impressed with her that I enlisted her as a "Certified Yearbook Photographer."

She was thrilled, but not as much as I am.

Now, the answer to the burning question of the day: What makes the Nikon D90 a great camera? It's user enthusiasm. Pretty simple, huh?

If that student leaves her camera at home, it's not worth anything. But, armed with her beloved DSLR and a passion for the results she knows are sure to come when she views her photos on the computer, she IS a Certified Yearbook Photographer.

Here's a quick rundown of some of the features that most photographers are impressed with in the Nikon D90

  • 12.9 megapixel DX-format CMOS sensor (effective pixels: 12.3 million)

  • 3.0-inch 920,000 pixel (VGA x 3 colors) TFT-LCD (same as D3 and D300)

  • Live View with contrast-detect AF, face detection

  • Image sensor cleaning (sensor shake)

  • Illuminated focus points

  • Movie capture at up to 1280 x 720 (720p) 24 fps with mono sound

  • IS0 200-3200 range (100-6400 expanded)

  • 4.5 frames per second continuous shooting

  • Expeed image processing engine

  • 3D tracking Auto Focus (11 point)

  • Short startup time, viewfinder blackout and shutter lag

  • Extensive in-camera retouching including raw development and straightening

Just a little note about the movie mode. The D90 was the first camera to have it, but now several others have added this handy feature with improved technology. But the terrific thing about this mid-level DSLR is its awesome image quality.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

The History of Photography: A Snapshot


Photography has been around for centuries and it is now one of Britain's best loved pastimes, enabling people to capture a special moment in a single snapshot. How has photography progressed through the years? Let's take a look at some of the key moments in photographic history...

The Defining Moments in Photography
The term 'photography' was first coined by Sir John Herschel who used the term way back in 1830 when the photographic process became public. However, images were being captured much earlier than this.

The first type of photography was seen in ancient times where camera obscuras were used to form images on walls in darkened rooms. A camera obscura is the first image-capturing invention which led to photography as we know it today.

Throughout the 16th and 17th Centuries, the brightness and clarity of camera obscuras improved greatly by enlarging of the hole and through the insertion of a telescope lens. These became frequently used by artists and were made more portable in the form of sedan chairs.

One of the major breakthroughs in the progression of photography was made by Professor J. Schulze who learnt that by combining chalk with nitric acid and silver in a flask, he could see a darkening effect on the side of the flask that was exposed to sunlight. This was essentially an accident, but Schulze effectively created the first photosensitive compound.

Perhaps the most defining moment in photography occurred in 1816 when Nicephore joined the camera obscura with photosensitive paper. From this, he was able to form a permanent image - the first time this had ever been possible in history. Through the years since Nicephore, photography has advanced to incredible levels of detail.

The Important of Art Insurance
Great photography can be a brilliant form of art and a quality photograph can have a defined effect on us and our thoughts and feelings. Some photographic works can be worth a huge amount of money, especially those by famous and renowned photographers. This is why it is important, if you purchase an expensive piece of photography, to invest in art insurance. It is likely that you already have home contents insurance but many companies' policies do not include art. If your art becomes damaged its value will drop considerably, and if it is stolen you may well lose a lot of money indeed. Be wise and cover yourself against losing a lot of money.

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Family Portraits - How to Take Great Portraits Outdoors


Why should you take family portraits outdoors? Besides the potential for beautiful or fun backgrounds, photographing outside provides the opportunity to use natural lighting. If you are a professional photographer or serious enthusiast then you know that the external flash, studio lights and reflectors work to mimic the beauty of natural light.

If you are new to photography and have a digital compact and built in flash, then taking your family portraits outdoors is the best way to get professional quality portraits that you'll want to proudly frame in your home.

The Best Natural Lighting for Taking Family Portraits Outdoors

Not all outdoors lighting is ideal. The worst time of day to take family portraits outdoors is mid-day. The best times of day are what many photographers refer to as the "Golden Hours" the hour before sunset and after dawn when the light is softest and the shadows least harsh. The closer to these times you can gather the family for their portrait, the better.

Another good option is to wait for a cloudy day when there is bright overcast light. This provides enough bright light and is the kind of softness professional photographers spend money on soft boxes to get. If the timing doesn't work out for any of the above, find shade that isn't too dark.

Outdoor Portrait Settings

The obvious choice and perhaps the perfect choice is the family's backyard. Or you could take a cue from high school senior photography and take your outdoors family portrait at a place the family enjoys such as a park. If you go away from home, look for locations and times of the day when the area is the least crowded.

You should also consider using a family activity or a hobby as a potential setting. If the entire family is into horses, a pretty pasture with horses nibbling on the grass with the family posed on and in front of a nice white fence could work quite well. If the family sails, consider the boat's deck.

Speaking of boats, a word of caution: if you decide to take any family portraits outdoors at places such as the sea, beach or snow, here are some things that can help: Select the beach mode on a digital compact, or if you use a DSLR or SLR, use a polarizing filter. This will help with the glare. Set the flash to "on" instead of "automatic" to help minimize shadows on the family. Don't position the family where they will be facing the sun otherwise they'll be squinting.

As with any picture, be sure to hide or remove clutter in the background. Do you want to use the natural outdoor lighting but want a plain background? Tack a piece of fabric to a fence. Check the lawn for sprinklers and behind the family for things that might be distracting, like a lamp post.

If you want to diminish the overall background, use the Portrait mode or set your Aperture Priority for a smaller depth of field.

On the other hand, you may want to have outdoor features as part of the picture by posing the family in front of a beautiful tree. Just be sure to compose the shot with the focus on the family.

Whether you are taking family portraits outdoors for others or your own family, use these portrait tips and you'll be sure to take a portrait that will be proudly framed on the family wall.